A Week in a Lighthouse – Sitka, Alaska
After a visit with our daughter, Eliza Leigh, in Ketchikan, she joined us for a week in Sitka, where we stayed together in the Sitka Lighthouse. The lighthouse was built in 1983 by Burgess Bauder, a legendary veterinarian, diver, humanitarian, and entrepreneur who turned his vision into reality by constructing a fully functional lighthouse on a small island just offshore. In 2017, Sitka native Teal West purchased and renovated the property, meticulously preserving its character while modernizing it for guests. Once known as the Rockwell Lighthouse, it now operates as a vacation rental, offering visitors the rare opportunity to stay in a working lighthouse on the edge of Alaska’s wild coastline.
Sitka has a rich and layered history. Initially inhabited by the Tlingit people for thousands of years, it became a center of Russian settlement in the late 18th century. Alexander Baranov, the first governor of Russian America, established a fort here in 1799, though conflicts with the Tlingit led to a battle in 1804. Eventually, Sitka became the capital of Russian America and remained so until the U.S. purchased Alaska in 1867. The formal transfer took place in town, a yearly event commemorated on Alaska Day. Today, remnants of Sitka’s Russian past remain, most notably St. Michael’s Cathedral, a beautiful Orthodox church in the center of town.
The town is on the water with a harbor full of fishing boats and floatplanes constantly coming and going. Unlike many of the more sheltered towns along Alaska’s inside passage, Sitka is exposed to the open Pacific, giving it a unique feel. The surrounding landscape is defined by the high peaks of Baranof Island, the thick temperate rainforest, and the relentless mist rolling in from the ocean. It’s a place where nature is dominant, and the weather can shift from calm and sunny to heavy rain and wind in a matter of minutes.
The signature small rocky islands around Sitka rise from the Pacific like sentinels, their basalt cliffs battered by waves and draped in green wind-stunted Sitka spruce and western hemlock. The trees, twisted by relentless winter wind, cling to cracks in the rock. In the channels between the islands, strong currents wind through kelp forests underneath. The heights of the small rocky islands around Sitka vary. Some are barely more than reefs, submerged at high tide, while others rise steeply from the water, reaching 100 feet or more.
Many of these islands remain untouched, others are home to cabins, and beautifully constructed residences perched on rocky bluffs, designed to withstand the weather and embrace the solitude and views. Some have rain catchment systems, solar panels as an energy source, and docks with skiffs ready for the short but sometimes wet and windy trip to town – especially during the winter. Other island homes, such as the lighthouse, rely on underwater cables from the grid in town for power. A mix of commercial fishermen, artists, vacationers, and recluses live here, weathering the brutal winter storms and enjoying the magic of the Alaskan summer.
Outfitted with cameras instead of fly rods, we didn’t fish on this trip, though the waters around Sitka are known for world-class salmon and halibut fishing. Instead, we spent time exploring by kayaking and using the small outboard-powered tender provided by the lighthouse owner to get to town to explore and pick up some groceries. Kayaking through the quiet coves and around small islands was a great way to experience the area up close, with the huge Stellar sea lions, otters, and bald eagles in the treetops. Humpback whales were a common sight just offshore, feeding in the deep waters beyond the islands.
Brown bears are plentiful around Baranof Island and often wander into town, following riverbanks and shorelines. Sightings near homes and businesses are not unusual, especially when natural food sources are scarce. Brown bear attacks are not uncommon on the island. Hikers, especially those who go alone, should be aware of this and take proper precautions.
The town of Sitka offers a range of amenities, from excellent lodging and dining options to attractions that highlight its history. Sitka offers several must-see attractions, such as Sitka National Historical Park, the Alaska Raptor Center, and the Fortress of the Bear. The town’s Russian heritage is evident in landmarks like the Russian Bishop’s House, a restored 19th-century building now serving as a museum, and St. Michael’s Cathedral, a historic Russian Orthodox church.
Recently, however, Sitka has seen a surge in cruise ship tourism, with over 585,000 visitors in 2024, leading to mixed reactions from residents. While tourism boosts the local economy, many locals are frustrated by overcrowding, traffic congestion, and disruptions to daily life. In response, a proposed measure seeks to cap annual cruise visitors at 300,000, limit daily arrivals to 4,500, and restrict large ships from visiting outside the May–September season. A special election in May 2025 will determine whether these regulations take effect, reflecting the community’s effort to balance economic benefits with preserving Sitka’s character.
Spending a week in the lighthouse allowed us to experience Sitka in a way few people do. The isolation, the changing weather, and the ever-present movement of the tides and currents made for a unique and unforgettable stay. The history, the landscape, and the wildlife, including the massive bears, made it clear why Sitka is one of the most fascinating and beautiful places – anywhere.